Southern Italy Study Tour: Capri

Our second day in Southern Italy, we went to the most beautiful place I have ever been in my entire life. Casa Malaparte, on the island of Capri.

Capri harbor

Capri is gorgeous enough in itself: flowers everywhere, light coastal architecture set on towering white and gray cliffs, crystal clear blue water washing up on gray rocks, lemon groves, ceramics, tiled house numbers, boats... Everywhere you looked was something beautiful.

Fragrant purple flowers over a restaurant awning

As soon as we arrived on the island, we took the funicolare up to the top of the cliffs and walked through town to a small food store where our professors had ordered sandwiches for us. They picked them up and we began the journey to Casa Malaparte.


Uphill, downhill... Through forests, past houses and gated gardens. Down paths surrounded by rock and wildflowers, on paths with nothing between you and a 30-foot drop but a low stone wall... Past rock formations like abstract sculptures, past periodic panoramic vistas of the sea...  

The three rocks symbolic of Capri

Down a narrow path that zigzagged its way through the woods down the hillside... Until, finally, far from town and any sign of houses or civilization, we caught our first glimpse of a piece of secluded paradise.

Casa Malaparte from the first gate to the property

We weren't permitted to take photos at the house, which ended up being kind of a blessing. The place was just so beautiful that if I had been allowed to keep my camera, I probably would never have looked anywhere with my own eyes. I would have just attempted to take an endless stream of photos that wouldn't even come close to capturing the true beauty of the place.

The last gate before the house, with a view of the dramatic roof stairs

The entire walk to Casa Malparte, all I could think about was how gorgeous the trees, flowers, cliffs, and water of Capri were. Casa Malaparte somehow managed to enhance that natural landscape in every possible way: the entire place was a designed experience of the surrounding natural features. Malaparte had selected certain views for each room on-site during the house's construction, so that specific rock formations, parts of the sea, or trees are perfectly framed for the optimal view from every window. The exterior of the house adds drama and wonder to the landscape, with the white sail on the roof blocking your view of the open sea, so that when you finally ascend the stairs and move around it, you are just completely blown away by the isolated openness of it all. The entire experience of the house and property was incredible.

We spent three hours at Casa Malaparte, sketching, picnicking on the roof, and releasing every ounce of stress out to the endless surrounding sea. The best part of being there was just that: to be.

However, eventually, we all had to leave, knowing that there was only a very slim chance that any of us would ever be able to come back. Still, I know I'll never forget the feeling of the refreshingly cool water splashing on my feet as I sat sketching at the bottom of the stairs down the cliff. Or sketching in the picture windows of the living room, gazing out at the spectacular view beyond. Or what it felt like to stand so calmly on the edge of the roof, with nothing between me and the horizon but the sparkling azzuro water of the Mediterranean. No railing, no usual fear of falling. Just the inner peace created by the architecture, the seclusion, and the quiet magic of Casa Malaparte.